Sunday, 14 October 2018

China

CHINA

Sunday, 22 July, 2018
I arrive at the airport to be told that the flight  has been cancelled -a taifun- and postponed for TWO DAYS.  I was about to cry when the nice lady from Cathay Pacific  offered an alternative flight  direct to Shanghai.  After a long process, involving THREE computers I was given  a boarding pass.
The flight was wonderful- I had a window seat  next to an vacant one and saw a good Russian movie about  fraudulent paintings.
Tolstoi would have been proud (maybe).
At least WendyWu could organise my arrival. I was greeted in Shangai  by her guide who took me  to the elegant Crown Plaza hotel.
It was late, I was tired but relieved.
 My trip had a good start.

Monday, 23 July, 2018

Our guide Stephen will take us through Shanghai, or rather parts of it; it  certainly needs more than two days for a complete visit.
We start with the Yu gardens, from the Ming dynasty.  We walk around and admire the stones, plants rockery and water which are essential to the Chinese garden design.  We take photos and mingle with the locals; it is summer, the children are on holidays and the make the garden come alive.













After lunch we  go for a walk on the Bund. This  is the place where in 1842 the European  powers obtained 'concessions'- granted unwillingly  by the Chinese - and built Western colonies  here.  We  walk along the river,  admire the tall buildings - I get the impression that the city which seems to extend  upwards, as  if there was not enough room on the ground.










 The -very British -Development Bank







Tuesday, 24 July, 2018

We are promised a visit to the'Silk Museum'.  It turns out to be a visit to a silk workshop. The 'museum' are  a few displays  showing the  life cycle of the silk worm  and a 'talk' promoting the virtues of silk bed linen. I walk away pitying the worms and the women who work here.
There will be no silk  for the wedding dress.
What follows is more fun.
After a long drive we arrive at the Grand Canal. This is a very ambitious project dating from the fifth century linking  the north and the south by connecting the  Yangzi  with the Yellow river.
The canal is no longer in use, but the sleepy village on its banks  has been maintained as a tourist attraction. People can live there,  along as they refrain from modernising the place.






We walk along the shops selling bizarre things, admire the water views and have a nice lunch (chinese).
Now, after watching the slow boats glide along the rover we must experience a very fast train.
It is, fast.
 Seen from the-very fast- train



From the very old to the very new. Pudong district is completely new, built only in the last twenty years. of course there are very tall buildings, shopping centres and an atmosphere of prosperity and wealth.
 A final treat, a night cruise on the Huagpu river. Lights, colour, animation.





           


It is very  impressive. Light pictures changing  on tall buildings along the river.  Very expensive, we are told, but good for the tourism.

Wednesday, 25 July, 2018.
Our last day in Shanghai .
We visit the Shanghai museum. there is furniture ceramics, coins, jade, costumes, but the most impressive is the building itself.






After lunch -the usual- we fly to Guilin.
There is a long  way from the airport to our hotel and we get to admire the special landscape of this region. These are karst peaks, al weathered into intriguing shapes. We see more of them during the cruise along the Li.  This is true rural China, with grazing buffaloes,  fishermen with  cormorants trained to catch fish , all against those magnificent karst peaks, unique to southwest China.






This is school holiday time in China so we turn away from those  karst peaks to admire the children on the boat, quiet, well behaved an each a living doll.
Friday, 27 July, 2918
Today we go for a ride to the COUNTRY to see  how 80% of the Chinese - those who  are not in the cities - live. Not very well, we think. The fields which give us our daily rice  look rather untidy as compared to the manicured European ones and the houses, maybe clean, are primitive and run  down.  Those elfin children look delightful but it is sad to see their grandparents  with bent necks, from extra work or  bad nutrition.
yes, this is rice


... I prefer them in the courtyard


The karst mountains in the  background are  magnificent.

Saturday, 28 July, 2018

Pearl'museum'...
The lunch that follows is good though. it is in a lovely restaurant high up on the 10th floor. We admire the view and enjoy the food.
Then a 'leisurely walk  along the
'the conjoined Ring and Shan lakes  (which) lie on either side  of Zhongshan Lu, which runs through the heart of the town'.
The garden setting is delightful; water, greenery and the mountains in the background set off magnificently the  pagodas  'Rong Hu and Shan Hu. We are told to be quiet so as not to disturb the old Buddha.. he should be happy, he smiles.






Sunday, 29  July, 2018

Flight to Xian

 I wish we could spend more time here.
This is the ancient capital of China, 4000 years old. It has lived through 11 dynasties..Zhou, Han, Qin
Sui and tang (probably more) and is still beautiful . The old city walls, the Stelae Museum (no time to visit  the inside) and  great Wild Goose pagoda  blend perfectly with the new, modern city.
We climb the  city  wall, admire the views and read about the Silk Road  which started here.







 The Silk Road story,
(so named by the Baron Richthofen, we learn) comes alive  at night, when he city puts on a light and sound display to entertain and enlighten the visitors ( the locals do not pay much attention to the displays, they are busy dancing in the streets to the sound of modern music)

Monday, 30 July, 2018
There is a long drive to the place where the farmer -now famous- discovered the  buried warriors.
It is hard to describe the enormity of the find; it is indeed as if a  real, huge  army has been cursed  and turned to stone.We look at the stone statues but see real people, about to move. ...maybe they will, one day.






At night we are given special treats; first there is a 'dumpling  banquet', consisting  of a   dumplings  meal followed by an superb opera . This is a theatre restaurant, with guests sitting and eating while watching the show. The dumplings are heavy and tasteless but the  opera- traditional Chinese- is superb; the music, dancing and stage decorations are wonderful.

This is the true story (more or less0 of the Empress of the Great Tang Dynasty



the photos do not do it justice

Tuesday, 31 July, 2018

We take the train  to Beijing and arrive at midday, in 39% heat,  very humid  heat. (Later on I am told that this is caused by pollution,  I know that we can hardly breathe and are drenched in sweat).
We recover somewhat during lunch, taken with a family who lives in a rather strange house, which appears to have been built from bits and pieces.  The lunch is OK though (there is a fridge and a modern stove) and we admire the crickets in tiny cages. As we eat we listen to the story of her family, in translation. Then we go for a ricksha ride, to get to know the neighbourhood. We  pass  through some miserable streets and come to rest  in an extra luxurious hotel.
This is China.

Wednesday, 1 August, 2018

Tianamen Square and the Forbidden City

Tianamen square is supposed to be the largest public place the world - it needs to be, to contain all the students, school children  on summer  holidays, their parents. Tourists- unlike myself and the WW group- know that they have to keep away from China during the summer holidays.
So, we walk, look around, have our photo  taken under Mao's portrait and start on the long walk through the Forbidden City.  We visit  the large gold and red buildings  but we are disappointed because there is very little to see inside- the rich furnishings have been taken away. The gardens are beautiful though, with the traditional plants, stones and waterfalls beautifully displayed. I wish I could see them with less people around.

 Shops,
Tianamen Square with Mao presiding beyond the grave


the gardens overlooked by pavilion



Afternoon

We visit the Temple of Heaven

'Completed  in 1420 during the Ming dynasty is one of the largest Chinese temple complex and a 'perfect example of Chinese architectural  balance and symbolism.'  We walk around the temple then enter into the  the circular hall and admire the  sky as  painted in the ceiling.


  In the past entrance to  this temple was  restricted to he Emperor, he could talk to the gods and pray on behalf of his people. Today they are walking in the gardens and playing cards.   



 famous ceiling
UNESCO  certificate of  historical value

 Chinese symbols

Chinese playing cards the  temple gardens




The Great Wall



And great it is!
The weather is very warm, the sly is overcast so that the whole place, far into the horizon is seen as through mist. The structure covers such a large surface that  with all the crowds the majestic wall still stands out. It crosses the maintains higher and higher until it disappears.,into  clouds. 












 Friday, 2 August, 2018

This is our last day her -rather busy. There is the jade  factory, lunch and then a gymnastics show, an incredible combination of dancing and superhuman acrobatic display played against a background of projected images.

It looks so daring that some cannot bear to  look.
We are tired but this was not to be missed.
A good finale to our trip


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